You may know it by the name of capocollo, coppa, capicola, gabagool — dozens of names to describe one Italian delicacy: a distinctive cured meat made from pork neck, easy to spot thanks to its vivid red color and beautiful marbling. Unlike ham, the fat in pork neck makes capocollo a soft, tender, and incredibly tasty cut. Capocollo from Martina Franca is a blend between two unique things: the very Italian practice of curing pork neck, and where it is made — the Itria Valley, a hilly farmland with fertile soils. It's here that the fragno, a distinct oak tree, has found its ideal home, passing down the aromas of the forest to the cured meat. We visited Salumi Cervellera, a family-run business in the heart of the Itria Valley, to find out more about how its traditional capocollo is made.